Earth, Water, Fire, Air, and Plums
A cookbook for the new age, a New York food memoir, and the best spice shop in the city.
Last month, I ran into a cozy bookshop off PCH in Laguna Beach, trying to escape the downpour. Inside, I was charmed by their particular flavor of staff picks. Generously hanging off each shelf throughout the store in every color of the rainbow, their handwritten notes were a welcome sight upon wet arrival.
I quickly spotted the food section, and saw a note that said, “Read this if you love nothing more than food, design, and New York City.” Without further consideration, I picked it up. It ended up being Save Me the Plums by Ruth Reichl, a memoir detailing her decade as editor-in-chief of Gourmet magazine.
My second selection this month, Earth, Water, Fire, Air, is a new age cookbook with truly unforgettable photography (though somewhat forgettable recipes). It felt like a natural choice alongside Ruth Reichel’s memoir, in which she describes modernizing Gourmet’s photography (including an October issue with Rocco DiSpirito “dancing” with a massive fish that I cannot stop thinking about).
Save Me the Plums by Ruth Reichl
The Laguna Beach Books staff did not disappoint. Save Me the Plums was exactly as advertised. Berkeley hippie meets corporate NYC as Reichl takes the reins of the staid Gourmet magazine, transforming it into a sleek, contemporary publication. I loved every part about this, from her delicious description of food and honest discussion of feeling unqualified for the job, to her gifted way of weaving personal stories in with her professional narrative. Reading this memoir left me considering my ideal career, feeling nostalgic for New York in years past, and ready to enter the kitchen and cook a meal.
As a result of reading, I found and subscribed to her delightful Substack which has become a new favorite.
Earth, Water, Fire, Air by Barbara Friedlander
I discovered Earth, Water, Fire Air, at Bonnie Slotnick Coobooks. Growing up with a mother and grandmother who once followed a macrobiotic diet, I always find myself perusing the small dedicated section in her shop on 2nd St. This particular book caught my eye because of the striking cover image and typography. Upon further inspection, the photography throughout the entire 1972 cookbook felt distinctly modern. All in black and white, the photos rely on the richness of the colors of produce to provide stark contrast to the simple wood and white tablecloth backgrounds.
In the entire cookbook, there is not a single photo of a completed recipe. In featuring photos of produce versus the assembled recipe, a focus is placed on the ingredient quality over the preparation.
In my experience with macrobiotic cookbooks, they often tend to shine in their exposition, produce glossary, or overall concept. This one is no exception: the approach is inspiring (think Alice Waters if she were even less tethered to day-to-day reality than her critics like to suggest), the vegetable glossary is a highlight, and each recipe includes a song or mantra recommended by the author.
Earth, Water, Fire, Air is more a “way-of-life book” than the kind of cookbook you are used to consulting. We offer this book to all your five senses. By using it in this way it is hoped that the sixth sense, the sense of awareness, may be tapped.
On The Map
S.O.S. Chefs
104 Ave B
New York, NY 10003
S.O.S. Chefs is the best spice shop in the city, that happens to be in my neighborhood. While they have everything, what really makes them special is their thoughtful curation. Every time I visit, I leave with a new spice or pantry item I have been introduced to, often seasonal.
At the store you are greeted by their friendly cat, richly scented incense burning within a hollowed out rock, piles of Moroccan carpets, hanging lanterns, and (of course) tall walls of spices. The owners are so lovely and engaged, always taking time to explain, introduce, and often offer a sample.
Some of my consistent purchases are:
Vadouvan Curry - A French take on the Indian spice, they describe it best: “Our house made Vadouvan is a jazzed up version of curry powder. The earthiness of the curry leaves along with the acidity of the kaffir limes and the subtle heat of the chilis combine perfectly for a punch of flavor.” I use it to make spiced leek and potato soup.
Trip to Tokyo Blend - Whenever I make tofu, I finish it with this Japanese sesame seed blend
Dukkah - After being introduced to this Egyptian spice at Botanica in LA years ago, I will put it on basically anything.
Plum Sesame - I am addicted these sweet sesame seeds and often add them to rice dishes.
Togarashi - I love this spicy, Japanese seasoning on potatoes
I am on a mission to replace all of my seasoning cabinet with their spice containers. Every time I run out, I eagerly run to the store to replace it. There is always something new waiting, whether it be dried mushrooms hanging from the ceiling, orange blossom water, or yuzu kosho.
I apologize for this dispatch being a week late. I will be publishing a second post later this week!