Where to Eat, Drink, and Shop in Tokyo

Just scratching the surface in Japan's biggest city.

Despite calling the largest metropolis in America home, Tokyo felt overwhelming in scale. Arriving directly after spending time in the bamboo forests of Shuzenji and temple-surrounded Kyoto, the city was jarring and bright. Similar to New York, finding pockets of places I loved helped me start making sense of the city within its larger landscape.

Here is my guide to eating, drinking, and homeware shopping in Tokyo. Similar to my Kyoto guide, it is no means is it comprehensive (nor do I think it could possibly ever be in Tokyo). These are the places that I loved in Tokyo.

Margo

Margo is a restaurant serving natural wines, and was one of our most special experiences in Tokyo. Recommended by friends, the lovely owners serve healthy fare, where California cuisine meets Japan. While the steak and other dishes were amazing, I am still stuck on the simple kale salad with the unexpected introduction of grapes. Straightforward, but delicious.

Kanda Matsuya

The best soba I had in Japan was at Kanda Matsuya. The family-run restaurant has been serving soba since 1884. It was also the only place I allowed myself to wait in line. I would wait in the twenty minute line four times over to eat it again.

Breakfast Club

Breakfast Club feels like Far Rockaway in 2016 (Mac DeMarco, Weyes Blood, Andrew Vanwyngarden) in the middle of Tokyo. After two weeks of eating Japanese breakfast, eggs, pancakes, bacon, and avocado feel like home.

Sushizanmai

When at Studio Mule (below), we asked the owner where we should eat dinner. He said, if you want to eat like a local on a Thursday night, go to Sushizanmai. The restaurant is a large chain throughout Japan run by “The Tuna King,” Kiyoshi Kimura. While I found that tuna was far less often served in Japan in comparison to salmon and sea bream, this restaurant maintains sharp focus on tuna. Absolutely no frills, but delicious.

Tyon

Another recommendation by a friend, Tyon is a new Indian restaurant in what feels like an apartment. The complexity of flavor with Japanese influence was unlike any other Indian food I’ve had.

Hashigo Ginza Hon-ten

Our favorite ramen we had was at this counter in Ginza. Alongside the rich and delicious noodles, white rice and pickles sit on the counter free of charge. On a rainy night in Tokyo, what could be better.

Old Imperial Bar

While the Old Imperial Hotel designed by Frank Lloyd Wright sadly no longer stands, the Old Imperial Bar in the new hotel maintains a peek of its charm. From the preserved fireplace mural to the attentive bar staff, being there feels like taking a step back in time. The Mount Fuji, Oriental Jewel, and the Tinkerbell are some of the best cocktails I’ve had. I love watching the mixologists at work, including their practice of setting the bottle in front of you while you drink. We visited several times during our stay. By a mile, the best hotel bar I’ve been to.

Studio Mule

Studio Mule is the best version of a listening bar that serves natural wine. No wine menu, they just pour what’s open and pull from their record collection. Simple and perfect.

Dume Bar

I wanted to explore Shinjuku’s Golden Gai without it feeling like a tourist trap. We happened into Dume Bar, walked up ten extremely steep steps, and arrived at the tiniest, best sake bar. A wide-ranging sake selection, tamari-coated popcorn, and smoking indoors. Dinner made on a hotplate by your bartender. An experience you could never have in the United States.

Eatrip Soleil

A more humble version of a Happier Grocery or Cookbook in LA, situated in a shopping mall in Shibuya. Pantry items, ceramics, and tableware line shelves and mismatched tables. I purchased a small green plate with a captivating glaze, only to realize months later it was produced by my favorite ceramicist, Shoshi Watanabe. I regret not buying so much more here.

CIBI

I somehow failed to take a photo here, but great coffee shop recommended by a friend that serves great food, pastries, coffee and sells lovely homeware. I bought their cookbook at my friend’s recommendation, and I enjoy cooking from it. As per my friend’s recommendation, the perfect lunch after visiting the nearby Asakura Museum of Sculpture.

道具と雑貨、かなかな

Tucked away on a street across from CIBI, this homeware shop has fun kitchen tools and homeware. I purchased a small pouch with a wire frame that I use as a makeup bag.

Kappabashi Street

While I unfortunately did not make it there during my trip, I plan on exploring the cookware district during my next visit.